NozzleĪ dirty nozzle is more likely to form clumps of melted filament right outside it. This solid string gets dragged to the next layer, ending as a string. Printing slowly ensures smoother print lines.īut it can also allow time for the leaky filament to solidify. Keeping your nozzle at temperatures that are too high results in stringing. This excess filament is dragged to the next layer and glued into place. Having a nozzle that is too hot for the filament means that more filament melts and leaks out. Retraction is the most important factor in eliminating stringing. It is also how long it takes for your printer to retract your filament up the extruder. Retraction is how far and how fast your extruders pull back the filament. Here are the main reasons why stringing occurs. Stringing is a printer error that can happen to the most seasoned printer user. When left unattended, you may need to scrap your whole print because of stringing. This leaves ugly strings sticking out of your print and may ruin its integrity. With too much pressure in your hotend, filament leaks out of the nozzle rather than getting sucked up the extruder. This is more common with Bowden extruders (not your Prusa) but can happen on Prusa’s, too. Without the proper retraction settings, the hot nozzle will continue to leak filament, which turns into strings. It happens when your nozzle travels some distance without printing. Plus, stringing can make some prints unsalvagable if not managed and contained. Of course, better is if it doesn’t string in the first place. If you have a bunch of stringing on a print you can fix it by cutting the strings with a nipper or hobby knife. It commonly happens when you haven’t fully calibrated your slicing software. This causes strings of filament to stick out of your print. This string gets dragged to the next print layer and sticks to it. Stringing is what happens when your printer extrudes melted plastic unnecessarily. We’ll also go over some easy ways of ensuring it never happens again. Let’s go over what stringing is and why your Prusa Mk3S is tringing. You’ve become a victim of printer stringing. But what’s this? Thin spider webs and tentacle-like strands of filament surround your print. You got yourself a Prusa i3 Mk3s+, one of the best printers on the market. But i swapped the original shroud back in as a test, same oozing and stringing.So, you’ve decided to invest in a 3d printer. I do have a custom cooling shroud that uses 2 fans, so its not 100% stock. I have of course done a fresh PID tune after the install, checked that everything is installed correctly and the ptfe insert is the correct size etc. I tried dropping the temps gradually down to 200c for the PLA, it helped a small amount but the part was pretty easy to break so I guess that's a non runner. I thought it might be my modified print profiles that are based on the Prusa defaults, but even after going back to the standard Prusament PLA and PETG profiles(and printing with fresh spools of both) I still get a bit more oozing and stringing than before. It's nothing terrible, but is very noticeable and requires the heat gun to clean up. But what I've noticed is more oozing and stringing than what I was getting with the original setup. I've done a bunch of test prints and they all print as well as the original hotend. All went well and the upgrade is pretty straight forward. I installed the Revo Six on my MK3S+ today. Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
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